Archiv für Juli 2009

Moscow, Moscow, throwing glasses at the wall…

Dienstag, 28. Juli 2009

The birthday was a nice mixture of drinking on the streets, sightseeing and getting totally drunk at Cechmans place. The beer here tastes really good but definitely is something what we would call “headache brew” in Germany. On sunday I was totally destroyed, with an headache so worse I haven’t had since a couple of years. But Russians are friendly and know a receipt against that: more beer. In the evening we met with a journalist who’s doing a tv documentary about the countercultural scene in Russia for what he needed an interview with Ukrop, too. The beer we had during this was on his bill so I felt already a little bit better when we came to the flat of Ukrops friends where a nice party with a couple of people was going on. The guys in the Apartment were a great, funny and interesting company so we stayed there for two days ;-) I got a lot of practical tips about hitchhiking in Siberia and some useful telephone numbers even if my mobile is not working at the moment (somehow in a very sleepy condition I dropped it accidentially in a glass of water which was standing beside my bed on the ground) but I’ll get a new one this evening from Ukrops Dad.
Yeah, so my days in Moscow are almost numbered. Tomorrow in the morning I will start to hitchhike to Irkutsk. People told me here that it will probably take 8 to 10 days and I don’t know if I will have the possibility for internet access along the way so it might take some time until you will read the next post. But I’m pretty sure that you will be able to read some very interesting anecdotes from a 5000km journey on russian countryroads ;-)

I still don’t have a mongolian visa. I will apply for it in Irkutsk. But I found a way to get a free invitation to Mongolia so that really shouldn’t be a problem anymore.

Liebesgrüße aus Moskau

Sonntag, 26. Juli 2009

(that’s the german title for the James Bond movie “From Russia in Love”)

The 2nd try to get up at 8am was more successfull than the first try. I had to cross whole St.Petersburg by metro before I got to the M10, the road to Moscow. I was there at 11am and got a lift with Vladimir (who’s name was not just Vladimir, he drove to the city of Vladimir, too) for roundabout 600km. He was a nice guy and stopped several times during the ride at some spots worth to see along the road, like a memorial for thousands and thousands soldiers fallen in the 2nd world war (really impressive, so many names…) and nice churches, for example. When he turned left to go to Vladimir I had a little bit more than 100km to Moscow left, which I made in a small tiny Lada. Ukrop, my host for the next days lives in a small town named Troitsk in the outskirts of Moscow which takes some time to get there. From the 2nd last metro stop I had to take another bus for an half an hour to get to his place. I’m not the only visitor at his place at the moment, with Ukrop there were Muri from Greece/Spain/Poland (it’s not so clear where he’s actually from, he lived in a lot of countries) and Tina from Leipzig, the girlfriend of Ukrop, so theres always something up in his flat at the moment, what I like.
The next to days I mostly spend with organising my mongolian visa. It’s not so easy as I read everywhere before. Everywhere it was written that it’s no problem to obtain for a visa without an invitation from a travel agency or a mongolian private person if you stay in Mongolia less than 30 days but the people in the mongolian embassy want to see an official invitation. The next day I tried it again at the mongolian consulate but they told me that I have to apply in the morning (the office is open from 9am to 12.30pm and 4pm to 5.30pm but in the afternoon they just give out the ready visas), so I have to go to the consulate at monday morning again, what a pain in the ass. If they refuse to give me a visa, too I will start to hitchhike to Irkutsk immediatly on tuesday to apply for a visa there. It should be much easier in Irkutsk as I read in a couple of internet forums.
Beside all that hassles I’m really fine. Moscow is an impressive city, in a kind of strange way. The traffic is enormous and it’s really hard to cross any major road. Traffic lights are seldom and the roads have at least 3 lanes in every direction with a lot of car. In the rush hour it looks like the same with the people. I somehow understand why Moscow has the reputation of the most expensive and the rudest city in the world. What disturbs me a little bit, too, is the thing that in the city centre it’s almost impossible to find a normal shop for normal people. You can walk for kilometres and you pass just shitty bourgoise food-, coffee- or designer shops. It’s almost impossible to find a normal supermarket. It’s a very exclusive city as I’ve got the impression yet and I have to say that I probably liked St.Petersburg more. On the other hand, you can find some very nice and remote spots for example in parks here and the sights are very nice, too. Even if I expected the Red Square a little bit bigger.
Today it’s Tinas 20th birthday (congratulations!) and we will celebrate this in the city centre with a lot of Vodka for the others and beer for me, I think ;-)
From sunday on there’s a one week anarchy congress in the City of Ufa, 1500km east of Moscow. If it works out with my visa I will go there for my next destination. If I will have some trouble with the visa I will try to get to Irkutsk as fast as possible… it’s just 5000km to there, so that should be done quickly ;-)

You’re from St.Petersburg if…

Dienstag, 21. Juli 2009

…you plan your summer holidays accordant to the cold water schedule.

I’m obviously not from St.Petersburg. Here they have just cold water for two weeks every summer, the state says it’s because water pipelines maintenance. The cold water period started today (tuesday), the day I usually wanted to leave to Moscow. But I totally overslept this morning and now will go tomorrow. So I had the pleasure to take a very cold shower this noon.

But today I managed it to get new passport pictures and to learn a little bit more russian (which is still very very poor). So here’s the ultimate russian hitchhiking sentence guide for people who speak german (in german phonetics):

Iswinitze -> Sorry/Excuse me
Ja odschin plocha gawaru pa russkie, iswinitze. -> My russian is very bad, I’m sorry.
Wui jeditzie wö …? -> Do you go to … ?
Moschizie w(u)siat minja bisplatne? -> Would you give me a lift for free?
Moschna dajechat ßwami do … ? -> Can I come with you until … ?
Baschalsta -> Please

So, have fun learning that and start to hitchhike to Vladivostok!

RUSSIA!!!

Montag, 20. Juli 2009

It’s not so easy to compose an article after so much pasta I just had but I will give it a try.

This time hitchhiking was not so cool, it still was no problem but the same stupid thing happened to me two times. The first time a driver dropped me out 3km before the estonian town “Jöhvi” and I had to walk into the city,  through the city and out of city to the street A1 which is the street from Tallinn to St.Petersburg. The same happened to me 20km before the arrival in St.Petersburg again, the driver dropped me out at the town “Krasnoe Selo” from where I took a train to “Piter” for 56Roubles (1€ = 44Roubles). Continueing hitchhiking made no sense because the traffic was already like in the middle of the city. But except these two annoyances it was quite easy. The border crossing took me not more then 15minutes (the 3rd border I passed on feet on this journey) and getting lifts was neither a problem in Estonia than  Russia. So I arrived at the “Baltiyskaya vokzal” (one of the main stations in St.P.) at 8.30pm. Polina, my dear host for the next four nights already waited for me, thanks!

I liked Russia from the first minutes I was there, perhaps it had something to do with the prices of cigarettes I saw at the first shop after the border. 24Roubles a pack, that’s what I call decent. The other price some people could be interested in, is the price for one liter of petrol. It’s even cheaper than a pack of cigarettes. Saint Petersburg is a city I liked from the very first minute as well. It’s somehow not like I expected a russian city to be like, it’s more a european city but it has some style. It was founded by Peter the Great in 1703 in the middle of a simp or nothing. He was crazy about Amsterdam and wanted a city with channels and Cannabis, no, sorry, not the last stuff, here in front of his home (Moscow), too. So nowadays Piter comes along with a lot channels and a lot of water in the city. It was the russian capital from 1703 to 1920 and so has a lot of historical buildings, churches (funny colourful), a forstress and many bridges which open at night. I think St.Petersburg is one of the cities you can spend days just on sightseeing and you still can’t see everything. Our group (Francesco from Italy but now living in Moscow, Anastasia, Polina, Rinat and me) was a funny composition. That we had no common language didn’t really matter (especially not after a couple of beers) so the night from saturday to sunday was very rich of different events. After spending the day with sightseeing and searching roofs to see the city from a bird’ eye view (that was not succesful but we met interesting persons who live a hard life under the roofs of this otherwise very “clean” city) we had a fantastic vegan pasta made by Francesco. We were a little bit to slow with the food so we had to run with full stomachs and beer and cigarettes in our hand to the metro station to get the last metro back into the city center but we made it. The night went on with these unbelievable great 1l beer bottles, climbing on monuments and watching the bridges open while peeing in the Neva river. Just great! Even if I don’t remember so much about “later” pictures and some videos of us say that we went to a club, sat in something white on the streets (people laughed at us) and somehow ended up in a hospital. Rinat felt an ache in his breast but it turned out that it was nothing serious. Anyway, that took us one or two hours so we were at home not before 8am in the morning. The next day is easy summarized: We slept until 6.30pm and went swimming at a local lake out  of the city. That’s it. Today it was again some mixture of sightseeing, eating pasta and buying train tickets for a friend of mine, that’s how a really great weekend ended.

Thanks a lot to Polina for all the help and the great hospitality! Have fun in the Balkans and Poland!

Estonian Hip-Hop, Salad bars, swimming at night and drinking in a public park

Freitag, 17. Juli 2009

Arnis brought me together with a friend of him before they went to work to the street going to Tartu in Estonia, which is the 2nd city in the country after Tallinn. Once again the hitching was not a big problem. Five lifts for about 300km in five hours is alright. Just the last driver from the latvian/estonian border to Tartu was somehow strange. Not in a dangerous way or something but when I walked by his truck and showed him the “Tartu” sign he said “tak” ( means “yes” in polish, the only language he spoke) but was not sure if he wanted to take me or not. I finally got the permission to enter his truck after he heard that I’m “niemcy”, what means “german”, and he got it proven by a look in my passport. After this he was very friendly, offered me some food and even made a detour to bring me as close to the city center as possible with his truck.
At the town hall square I met up with Mart, the brother of Mari who couchsurfed my place in Hamburg two years ago. Mari went out of town the same evening for work in Finland but we still managed to meet for some time and had a good talk in a park. Mart is a cool guy as well, he’s pretty much into Hip-Hop and already had some success with several hip-hop groups. His project “Öökülm” even was nominated for the best hip hop act in the estonian music award and won the price of the best newcomer. At the moment they are working at a new album. Even me, and I’m neither into Hip-Hop pretty much nor speak estonian liked his music, so check this out: http://www.myspace.com/88kylm (btw: the number “8″ is used for “Ö” letters in estonian internet language, not for something bad like it’s used in Germany for)
Tartu as a city  is a very nice student town of 100000 inhabitants but comes along a little bit more like a german town of the half size. The old town and the “Pirogov Park”, which is the only place in Estonia where you’re officially allowed to drink alcohol in public are cool to hang around for one or two days. The “mother river” which flews through the city is a nice spot to go swimming at night as we did at my last evening – very refreshing! And I shouldn’t forget to mention this great salad bars in the supermarkets where you get fresh salads, potatoes and, if you want, disgusting stuff like meat,  for good prices. At all a nice stopover!
And the next stop will bring me into the first new country in the trip…
Tartu as a city  is a very nice student town of 100000 inhabitants but comes along a little bit more like a german town of the half size. The old town and the “Pirogov Park”, which is the only place in Estonia where you’re officially allowed to drink alcohol in public are cool to hang around for one or two days. The “mother river” which flews through the city is a nice spot to go swimming at night as we did at my last evening – very refreshing! And I shouldn’t forget to mention this great salad bars in the supermarkets where you get fresh salads, potatoes and, if you want, disgusting stuff like meat,  for good prices. At all a nice stopover!
And the next stop will bring me into the first new country in the trip…

Labi pavadits laiks Latvija

Mittwoch, 15. Juli 2009

“A good time spent in Latvia”. Yeah, that describes the two days with Arnis and his small family (which is made up by his wife Diana and his small 2yo boy Kristers) very well.
But let’s put the things in order. Liepa accompanied me to the hitchhiking place out of Vilnius where it was not even possible to say goodbye to her in a proper way. I was not even standing three minutes with my sign “Riga” at the side of the road when I already sat in car directly to Latvias capital. In this moment Liepa just went off for 5 minutes to take a look down the street if theres a better hitching place. But the driver Aleksandrs (a 49yo men from Kiev living in Riga) slowed down a little bit so I had at least the chance to say goodbye through the car window. Three hours later Aleksandrs dropped me out in front of the central station where I took a train for 1,15Lat (1Lat = 1,50€) to Ogre, the place Arnis lives. At the evening we had a nice salat dinner and went out for a walk into nature, too. The next day we drove by car to Sigulda, a city in the middle of the “Gauja Nacionalais Parks”, Latvias biggest National Park. The park’s nickname is “Latvian Switzerland” and comes up with a “rope air tram”, caves, very nice forests, a great castle from the 13th century and a nice clear river through all of that. Beside Arnis and me his small son Kristers was with us what was a special fun to have him with us. Really a cool, clever and funny boy! After a couple of hours of hiking fun, good views and breathing history we went back to Ogre where once a again a delicious dinner waited almost already waited for us. Thanks a lot for all the great hospitality you showed me!

One more word about Latvia and the situation in the country at the moment. Latvia is, beside Iceland, probably the country in Europe the economical crisis effects most. People describe it like that: “They gave us the chance to live a good life but not with latvian money, it was with scandinavian banks money. People who lived all their life in the soviet union now had the possibility to get credits but they applied for too much credits and spent too much money which was not their money. The government then said that there must be a control system for the bank system. That leaded to banks not giving any credits to anyone anymore. At the moment the credits stopped the infaltion was very high and then came the global economic crisis. Actually the economics of Latvia were stopped at that moment, a lot of companies went bankrupt, thousends of people left the country, a lot of other people got unemployed. Nobody buys anything anymore at the moment and even the government tries to save some money (like medical operations, usually paid by the state aren’t done at the moment if it’s not absolutely necessary) and some people think that Latvia is very close to a total state bankrupt. The most asked question in the streets is at the moment ‘Are you working now?’ ”

So, capitalism obciously is not working ;-) Try Anarchy!

How to open a bathroom door and not to open the door when the police is in front or: three days in Vilnius

Montag, 13. Juli 2009

Life’s easy here in Lithuania -  you’re having a party and someone broke the door lock of the bathroom door and a person is inside the room at the same time. That happens (it was not me, neither the person inside the room than the person who broke the door lock if some of you are wondering ;-) ). Of course you have to break the door to liberate the inprisoned guy which takes more than one hour of jumping and kicking against that door. And of course that makes some noise and the neighbours call the police. But when they come it’s not a problem. You just ignore them and don’t open the door and they will go away after they lightened with flashlights into the windows. That’s what I learned on friday evening.
What else for this weekend? The company I had was great, thanks to Liepa, Jore and Donatas for their hospitality and the cool time I spent with them and their friends. Liepa even helped me to find a new jacket because my usual jacket is my first lost during the trip (but there will come more for sure as I know me). Always be optimistic, so I hope that my hitchhiking chances increase now because the new jacket is an old jacket from the Pizza delivery company “Domino’s Pizza”. So I look like a Pizza delivery guy when I hitchhike. People like Pizza, so I guess they will stop (or they will feel sorry because this pizza delivery guy has to hitchhike to the clients because somehow his scooter disappeared).
In supermarkets here they have live fish displayed in small aquariums for people to choose to butcher. They can decide whether they want a selling person to slaughter it or just they just carry it home in plastic bag without water. That’s how speciesist Lithuania looks like ;-) .
Recommendations for a nice pub evening out get the pubs “Alaus namai” with a huge selection of draft beers from all over the world and from a lot of villages and towns in Lithuania with a half liter price of just 4,50Litas (=1,30€). The other place is the “Play Club” where you can mess with the best table soccer players in town or simply play another cardboard game… very cool thing!

The weekend at all was really nice and ended today, after I had to escape from bus conductors (2Litas a ride is just much to expensive) with two really nice Jim Jarmusch movies (”Stranger Than Paradise” and “A Night On Earth”).

Seven lifts to Vilnius

Samstag, 11. Juli 2009

The day began quite shitty. Usually it’s very easy to hitchhike from Hamburg to Berlin, there is a “street roundabout” from which one exit directly is the beginning of the motorway A24 to Berlin. Something like 50 cars pass by there every minute and they have a great opportunity to stop for hitchers, so it usually takes not longer than 10 minutes to get a ride. This morning I was standing at that spot as well and after 5 minutes the police showed up to tell me that it’s illegal to stand there because it’s officially already the motorway (they told me nothing new). I was told to move into the front of another entrance of the roundabout at a busstop which is a totally disaster to stop for cars and to hitchhike. The police drove by again frequently (don’t know what their mission was today) so there was no way to go back to the good spot. After almost two hours of waiting at the worse spot I gave up and went back to the bus stop to go to another good spot in Hamburg, the service station Hamburg-Stillhorn, even if it’s a construction side at the moment. The first person I asked gave me a lift to a service station close to Rostock… There I found two persons from Poland which braught me to the german-polish border at Szczecin where it took forever to get the next lift again. ALL, really ALL cars I asked went to Gdansk. It took more than two hours to get into the next car of a helpful person, who was Tomek. Tomek was not just a good deal for me getting through Poland, he was a very funny and intelligent guy as well. He drove almost through all Poland with just small stops and dropped me out in Elk at the next morning at 6.30am. Yes, it takes so long to drive 600km of bumpy polish countryroads. I laid down for some 2,5 hours in a bus stop to relax a little bit before the last 300km, sometimes with hitching in hard hard rain, were covered without any bigger problems in a little bit more than 5 hours. So Hamburg-Vilnius (1400km) took me 27 hours and just seven different drivers. In Vilnius I already was expected from Artures, the boyfriend of Liepa, a girl I know from a music festival at my last visit in Vilnius. He brought me to the house I am invited to feel like at home for the next 3 or 4 days. After a shower Liepa and some more persons showed up and the evening programm started, made up by a free concert in the citycentre and some chilling at the local river with some beers. We had a lot to tell, like it is if you don’t see somebody for two years. The party with very relaxed and cool persons later even moved with us to the flat I’m staying at and continued for some more hours but I went to bed earlier… I was just too tired.

btw: If you want to support hitchhikers in Hamburg to make the good spot at the roundabout “Horner Kreisel” a legal one, please sign this petition: http://horner-kreisel.hitchbase.com/ (the page is not working at the moment, don’t know if it’s just a temporary problem or if they stopped the petition)

Let’s get started

Montag, 06. Juli 2009

Finally, in the really last minute the blog is ready. I never thought that it could be so much work to install something like that but alright, it’s probably just so much work because I’ve got absolutely no idea about all that computer stuff.

Alright, it’s monday now. The weekend with my farewell parties is over, all my stuff I will take with me lies on the ground and waits for getting in the backpack. This afternoon I still have to organise the last things like getting my last vaccination, copy some stuff and visit my bank but then, this evening or tomorrow morning I will finally start.

A lot  of people asked me the last days If I’m already getting nervous. No, surprisingly I don’t do. Not even now. It feels more like “It’s time now and I’m ready for this”. But I had to much stuff to do the last days so I think that I had no time to get nervous. Probably I really will get nervous when I’m standing at the motorway with my backpack hitching out of Hamburg when I know that that will be the last time in a longer period I won’t see my friends, the city and everything else I like again. But I’m ready for that.